Bar Uchū

Overview

This unexpected culinary diamond lies hidden behind a blonde wood door and right beside a graffiti-covered playground—its only sign is written in Japanese characters. It all feels very LES at Bar Uchū's kaiseki counter. Once inside, the elegance is unmistakable, starting with the warm towels that begin your meal to the paté de fruits that end it. The intricate beverage program is central to dining here, thoughtfully planned right down to the coasters. There is no open kitchen, but the prime seats are at the bar, where the entertaining bartenders are hand-shaving ice, pouring superb Japanese whiskeys, and filling coups with smoke. Of course, the foremost reason to dine here is for the exceptional kaiseki-style menu. Behind the kitchen's closed doors, Chef Samuel Clonts has emerged into this spotlight, straight from his training at Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare. The cuisine is heavily influenced by Japanese craftsmanship and incorporates a host of ingredients, many of which are grown in their rooftop garden. Luxe highlights include a Siberian sturgeon caviar handroll, Miyazaki Wagyu beef, and Hokkaido uni. Finales also astound by way of a soufflé with warm roasted strawberries and matcha ice cream.