Eleven Madison Park

Overview

Chef Daniel Humm’s cooking is clever, innovative and even a little whimsical; it is as often robust as it is delicate. This variety and depth is what sets him apart from other chefs, and puts Eleven Madison Park on the vanguard of America’s dining evolution. No menu is presented here, but diners are empowered to choose their preferences for a number of courses. The myriad plates that subsequently appear are dramatic, like the gueridon presentation of asparagus in rosemary broth cooked sous-vide in a pig’s bladder, but also display extraordinary understanding of technique, as in the dry-aged duck. The latter sports a crisped auburn skin flecked with roughly crushed spices. Baked Alaska for two is a splashy presentation, drizzled with Chartreuse and flambéed tableside. The restaurant is housed within the sort of grandeur that could only ever have belonged to a financial institution. At two decades in, this imposing arena now flaunts an updated interior that befits the luxurious cuisine. Considerable help comes courtesy of the engaging staff as they explain each dish in loving terms but without ever sounding too virtuous. They also know when to talk and when to leave you to enjoying your meal.